We spent about a month exploring this amazing country, and despite the fact that both of us suffered from cold and flu symptoms for much of that time we still managed to really enjoy our time in Türkiye. We saw an amazing assortment of fascinating attractions as we moved through the country much faster than anticipated. This was partly because of the highly developed highway system here and the fact that we didn’t find any specific location where we wanted to drop anchor for an extended period of time. Also contributing to the quick touring pace was having done detailed preparation for the trip. Organizing a flexible agenda complete with GPS coordinates really elevates efficiency on the road. Preparing is a time consuming process but what a difference it makes when you’re zipping down that highway.

We left Seher and the Dekafok Turtle Sanctuary and drove a short distance to what is considered the best preserved Roman Theatres in the world, built in 162 AD. The “Aspendos Archaeological Site” is truly spectacular. This 12,000 seat theatre still hosts major events every year. Should I mention the impressive Roman ruins situated above the Theatre? Further along the coast is Antalya. A very big and busy city that surprised us with the incredibly large number of five star mega-resorts that lined the ocean front and created an unwelcoming security zone atmosphere. One noticeable eye-popping resort was called “The Kremlin Palace” highlighting the popularity of this coastline to Russian tourists.

The beautiful, and popular, seaside town of Kas was an experience for us. We drove into Kas through “vertical” streets crowded with people that provided 1/2 inch clearance between folded-in-mirrors. Locals are very respectful and quick to assist with “inch-by-inch” guidance through some very tight spots. I wish the impatient drivers behind us had the same respect; they do love their horns. BTW, this situation is a common occurrence in many small and large towns throughout the Mediterranean so many local drivers here seem proud to display vehicle side panel damage like battle scars.

Further along this historically jam packed coastline you find the resort town of Dalyan. The 4th century Lycian Tombs overlooking the Dalyan river make for an outstanding backdrop. We also had the best, and least expensive, donair we’ve ever had at a small shop just out of the main tourist section of Dalyan (worth noting).

Inland we drove to a truly dazzling location with three significant sites. The first one is Pamukkale (cotton castle) and we camped just below it. Visualize a spectacular calcium waterfall that has over time, created this massive white terrace. We walked (up and down) this terrace through mineral rich water, in bare feet, to gain access to the second fantastic location, Hierapolis. Located just above Pamukkale and built around a thermal spring this very impressive site dates back thousands of years to Hellenistic times. The third location, in a panoramic location about 15 km’s away, is called Laodikeia. What a fascinating and beautiful archaeological site this was, especially early in the morning before all the bus tours arrived.

Back to the Aegean Sea to visit another famous ancient city called Ephesus. Wow! This site is truly impressive and did not disappoint us in any way. The Greek city of Ephesus, built in 1000 BC, had a major influence on the entire ancient world with much of that influence carrying over to this day. Ephesus was a very important centre of worship and a big player in the spread of Christianity. It was also a major port and considered a city as magnificent as Rome itself.

After passing through the very nice but fast moving city of Izmir, we set our sights on Bergama (Pergamum). We had Kristen in our minds when we visited the Asklepion archaeological site. This was one of the ancient worlds main centres of learning and the great physician Galen was born here in 129 AD. He established a famous medical centre called the Asclepieum and this could be considered the world’s first official teaching hospital.

Troy was the last major stop on our tour of Türkiye and it turned out to be surprisingly interesting. We were told that it was just a pile of stones and not worth the $80 to see it. Wrong… a very fascinating site, location and history that dates back to 4000 BC and goes through nine layers of strata development with the last one being the Roman’s in 300 AD. Besides the legends that still keep us guessing, Troy has been famously excavated with many of it’s treasures being displayed in major museums around the world.

We’ve now entered Greece and are waiting out some rain at a great waterfront campsite just below Mount Olympus. Our plan is to start heading north through Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro and Croatia. We’re here earlier than expected so we’re now formulating a plan to utilize our extra time in the best way possible. We’ll keep you posted!

The amazing 12000 seat Roman Aspendos Theatre

After those energy-rich days exploring Istanbul we were ready for a reduction in pace and we got our wish at a great little campsite (La Cabana) on lake Iznik Golu not far from the Yalova ferry. The small city of Iznik can boast a very large and impressive story historically; it’s also famous for its porcelain tiles made here for many Sultans. We spent a couple of days relaxing on the lakeside, eating well at their restaurant, and doing some necessary laundry. We watched friendly local commercial fishermen net small fish they call “Hamsi”, similar to an anchovy. We joked around with the guys by playing the “animated language” game and when they eventually left, they gave a big bag of the little fish to the campground owner to prepare as part of our dinner. Like the fishermen, most of the Turkish people we’ve met are amazingly wonderful (unlike those little fish… in my opinion only). BTW, all the meals we had at this campground were fantastic including the eye-popping traditional “Turkish Breakfast”.

Moving on, we spent a travel night at the interesting Rainbow Hills before entering Ankara, the Capital of Turkiye. Very big, very modern and very busy. We planned on stopping here and visiting Ataturk’s Mausoleum. He was the father of Turkish democratic reform and modernization. He is truly revered by the people of Turkiye. Unfortunately for us it was a holiday, the mausoleum was packed with visitors and therefore parking was impossible. We squeezed in a lame sample picture from the road below, and moved on.

After a few hours of driving on an impressive, modern, six lane highway, we arrived at a location that is considered a world treasure. Cappadocia is a region with human connections that date back more than five thousands years. Amazing cave dwellings dug into the sides of soft volcanic cliff formations reminded me of Bedrock City for those of us that remember good old Fred and Barney from the 1960’s Flintstones Cartoons. “yabba-dabba-doo!” Cappadocia encompasses about 300 sq/km and it includes “ferry chimneys”, caves and underground cities. We visited one underground city that could accommodate 5,000 Christians, their animals and all the food necessary to survive an attack. We lasted about 15 minutes inside that freakishly amazing and impressive cave structure before feeling strangely claustrophobic and short of breath. For us, crawling through a small part of this structure was just about right. Cappadocia was also a major trading location on the “Spice Road” and was also known for its prized white horses. If all these facts are not enough to impress you, then I’m sure the modern “Hot Air Balloons” will. Every morning, wind permitting, the sky is filled with tourist filled balloon baskets gently floating over “Goreme”, the main town centre of Cappadocia. This is a very impressive spectacle to see, especially as the rising sun breaks over the distant mountains and lights-up the hundred plus colourful balloons. Wow!

Onward to the southern coastline of the Mediterranean that overlooks the mountains of Cyprus. We were caught by surprise as we thought this coastline would be quiet and quaint but apart from the steep mountainous region what we discovered was a busy built up coastline with many miles of modern mega-resorts and fancy condominiums.

We’ve now dropped anchor for a few days on the beach at Manavgat (Side). Here’s where we’ve sought out and made contact with a truly amazing woman doing truly incredible conservation work. We were introduced to Seher Akyol by another amazing and inspirational British couple by the names of Chris and Marianne Fisher. These two wonderful individuals also have a fantastic story and share it weekly in a popular YouTube site called “Tread the Globe”. Every week for the last four years we’ve faithfully followed their “around-the-world” event filled adventures driving their steadfast 2005 Fiat Campervan called “Trudy”. During the dark days of covid they were essentially locked-down in Turkiye so during that dreaded time they traveled the country extensively (interestingly, this is how we developed our desire to motorhome Turkiye). So… how does inspirational Seher Akyol fit into this picture? In this mega development rich area huge resort like complexes are starting to pop up all along these magnificent beaches and people looking for beach time were unintentionally destroying a crucial ocean turtle nesting ground located on Bogaz beach.

A number of years ago Seher quit her regular good job, set up a beach tent and went to work saving Caretta (Loggerhead) turtle nests and the baby turtle hatchlings. With no financial support she lived full time in her tent and worked tirelessly every day walking many kilometres up and down the beach in the hot sun locating the turtle nests, staking them out for protection, chasing away intruders, both day and night, and educating everyone she could.

Chris and Marianne happened to meet her during a leisurely stroll on that beach and Seher was excited to tell them all about her work; but it soon became obvious that she was hungry, exhausted, unsupported, and almost broken, all her hard work was in jeopardy.

This situation would never go unanswered by Chris and Marianne. Immediately they called out to there vast network of YouTube followers for any financial assistance possible. They helped Seher then, and continue to work with her now to provide the resources she needs to keep her important ecological project going. We’re on that list of contributors and we really wanted to meet this inspirational woman on our travels through Turkiye.

I’m happy to report that Seher is as wonderful in real life as she appears to be in all those “Tread The Globe” YouTube episodes. Has she made a difference? Yes! She has fought off the commercial development of this vital portion of Bogaz beach. She has obtained park status from the government for this delicate beach area. She’s had all the bright white lights along the beach altered so they don’t confuse the mother turtles as they come up the beach to lay their eggs during the nighttime. People now ask her for permission to walk on the beach. All large ocean going fishing boats with big nets must stay 27 kilometres off-shore, dramatically reducing the number of drowned turtles. She has carved out an education centre and provides lessons to thousands of children and adults every year at her Dekafok beach interpretation centre. She now works hand-in-hand with education and biology departments of major Universities. She has achieved national and international recognition and yet she still lives in the little interpretation centre on the beach guarding her turtles every day. But, best of all, she has saved many, many thousands of turtles and by educating people she has changed attitudes regarding the protection of these incredible animals.

Oh… BTW, as we were sitting with her and having coffee on the beach education observation platform, she picked up the phone and on speed dial, called Chris and Marianne who have just arrived in Calcutta, India where they’re waiting for Trudy to arrive by ship. We had a wonderful conversation with them and even made plans to meet them in August when they’ll be visiting on Vancouver Island.

Meeting Seher and experiencing her hard work saving the Caretta (Loggerhead) turtle will be one of the major highlights of our entire trip through Turkiye.

You can find more information about Seher Akyol and her passionate project at (www.dekafok.org.tr).

Early morning from our campsite